Add right linear Y rail docs

docs/introduction.md

@@ -9,7 +9,9 @@ has_toc: false
 {% capture preface %}
 In the last few years 3D printers have become blisteringly fast, pushing the limits of both heating and cooling while leaving those of us with printers like the Ender 5 feeling a bit left out of the fun. That ends now. Your Ender 5 is capable of being every bit as fast as a Voron without the hefty price tag. There have been [other](https://zerog.one) CoreXY [projects](https://www.printables.com/model/169131-ender-5-core-xy-with-linear-rails-mk3) to do a full conversion on the Ender 5, but often the price of parts or the complexity of the build makes it hard to justify over just buying something pre-built like a Bambulab P1P.
 
-**The Endorphin is different.** With a build you can do in an afternoon and parts that total less than $25, you no longer have any excuses *not* to turn Ender 5 into a speed demon. The difference is in the kinematic design.
+**The Endorphin is different.**
+
+With a first-stage build you can do in an afternoon with parts that total less than $25, you no longer have any excuses *not* to turn Ender 5 into a speed demon.
 {% endcapture %}
 {% include docs-preface.html
   title="# Introduction"

docs/stages/stage-1.md

@@ -130,10 +130,10 @@ If you find that your X stepper motor is getting hot during long prints, you can
 These two center idlers are the reason we're using ones with a 3mm bore throughout the project rather than the more common 5mm bore. Because we're making use of two of the stepper mounting holes on the original X stepper plate to hold the axles for the idlers. These holes are only large enough to use M3 screws as axles, hence the 3mm bore pulleys.
 
 1. Remove the old X belt if you haven't already
-1. Place the bottom center-idler plate on top of the carriage (the bottom plate is the one without the hexagon holes)
-1. Sandwich two pulleys between washers and set on top of the idler plate
-1. Insert two M3 hex nuts into the top idler plate and place on top of the pulleys
-1. Drive two M3x25 screws from the underside, passing through the holes original steel plate and then through our stack of new parts, finally threading into the hex nuts in the top center-idler plate
+1. Place the bottom center idler block on top of the carriage (the bottom plate is the one without the hexagon holes)
+1. Sandwich two pulleys between washers and set them on top of the idler block
+1. Insert two M3 hex nuts into the top idler block and place on top of the pulleys
+1. Drive two M3x25 screws from the underside, passing through the holes original steel plate and then through our stack of new parts, finally threading into the hex nuts in the top center idler block
 {% endcapture %}
 {% include docs-step.html
   heading="## Center Idlers"

docs/stages/stage-2.md

@@ -58,7 +58,7 @@ A great help in mounting the rails is a [rail alignment tool](https://www.thingi
 1. Remove the v-slot wheel screws and wheels on the left wheel plate
 1. Remove the two screws on the underside of the plate which attach it to the X gantry and save one of these screws for later
 1. The plate can now be removed from the gantry
-1. Using M3x8 screws and T-nuts, attach an MGN12 rail to the frame (this is where the alignment tool comes in handy)
+1. Using M3x8 screws and T-nuts, secure the MGN12 rail to the **outside** of the frame (this is where the alignment tool comes in handy)
 1. Attach your new left linear mount (the smaller of the two) to the linear bearing block (the slidey thing) using M3x8 screws
 1. Press the X gantry into the 20mm cutout in the mount then use one of the M5 screws from step 3 to secure mount to the X gantry from the underside
 1. Fish one end of the Y belt through from the top of the new rail mount, then out the bottom and back in the direction it orginated
@@ -71,6 +71,25 @@ A great help in mounting the rails is a [rail alignment tool](https://www.thingi
   content=left
 %}
 
+{% capture right %}
+1. Remove the v-slot wheel screws and wheels on the right wheel plate
+1. Remove the two screws on the underside of the plate which attach it to the X gantry and save one of these screws for later
+1. The plate can now be removed from the gantry
+1. Remove the center idlers and the sandwich blocks. You won't be needing the bottom block but the top one will be reused.
+1. Using M3x8 screws and T-nuts, attach the MGN12 rail to the **inside** of the frame (this is where the alignment tool comes in handy)
+1. Attach your new right linear mount to the linear bearing block using M3x8 screws
+1. Press the X gantry into the 20mm cutout in the mount then use one of the M5 screws from step 2 to secure mount to the X gantry from the underside
+1. Reattach the center idlers as the were before, minus the bottom block. **Don't forget the M3 washers on both sides of the pulleys!**
+1. Fish one end of the Y belt through from the top of the new rail mount, then out the bottom and back in the direction it orginated
+1. Secure the belt against its own teeth using a zip tie or belt clip
+
+{% endcapture %}
+{% include docs-step.html
+  heading="## Right Rail"
+  video="/assets/vids/docs/stages/stage-2/assembly-right-linear-y.mp4"
+  content=right
+%}
+
 ---
 
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