Add step and preface section includes

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Endorphin3D
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<div class="d-lg-flex gap-x-4" {% if include.reverse %}style="flex-direction: row-reverse"{% endif %}>
<div style="flex: 1">
{{ include.title | markdownify }}
{{ include.content | markdownify }}
</div>
{% if include.image %}
<div style="flex: 1">
<img src="{{ include.image }}" alt="{{ include.alt }}">
</div>
{% endif %}
</div>

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<div class="d-lg-flex gap-x-4" {% if include.reverse %}style="flex-direction: row-reverse"{% endif %}>
<div style="flex: 1">
{{ include.heading | markdownify }}
{{ include.content | markdownify }}
</div>
{% if include.image %}
<div class="mt-8" style="flex: 1">
<img src="{{ include.image }}" alt="{{ include.alt }}">
</div>
{% endif %}
{% if include.video %}
<div class="mt-8" style="flex: 1">
<video muted controls loop class="w-full">
<source src="{{ include.video }}" type="video/mp4">
</video>
</div>
{% endif %}
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.clear-left { clear: left; } .clear-left { clear: left; }
.clear-right { clear: right; } .clear-right { clear: right; }
.clear-both { clear: both; } .clear-both { clear: both; }
.clear-none { clear: none; } .clear-none { clear: none; }
@for $i from 1 through length($spacers) {
$size: #{map-get($spacers, sp-#{$i - 1})};
$scale: #{$i - 1};
// .gap-0, .gap-1, .gap-2...
.gap-#{$scale} {
gap: #{$size};
}
// .gap-x-0, .gap-x-1, .gap-x-2...
.gap-x-#{$scale} {
column-gap: #{$size};
}
// .gap-y-0, .gap-y-1, .gap-y-2...
.gap-y-#{$scale} {
row-gap: #{$size};
}
}

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@@ -6,23 +6,31 @@ permalink: docs/getting-started
has_toc: false has_toc: false
--- ---
## Kinematic {% capture preface %}
The Endorphin uses a slightly different belt setup from the original Ender 5, known as the "Markforged kinematic" or a Hybrid CoreXY. In this setup the X belt moves like a CoreXY but the Y axis remains in its original Ender 5 cartesian style--one of the main reasons why the Endorphin is is so much faster to build than a CoreXY. The Endorphin uses a slightly different belt setup from the original Ender 5, known as the "Markforged kinematic" or a Hybrid CoreXY. In this setup the X belt moves like a CoreXY but the Y axis remains in its original Ender 5 cartesian style--one of the main reasons why the Endorphin is is so much faster to build than a CoreXY.
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-preface.html
title="# Getting Started"
image="/assets/images/docs/getting-started/belt-path.png"
alt="Belt path"
content=preface
%}
![Belt path](/assets/images/docs/getting-started/belt-path.png) {% capture kinematic %}
{: .max-w-112 }
Now, if you know anything about CoreXY machines you know that unlike cartesian printers, CoreXY printers don't have an "X stepper" or a "Y stepper" because a movement of one stepper affects both belts. In the Markforged kinematic, this is only sometimes true: Now, if you know anything about CoreXY machines you know that unlike cartesian printers, CoreXY printers don't have an "X stepper" or a "Y stepper" because a movement of one stepper affects both belts. In the Markforged kinematic, this is only sometimes true:
- The X stepper can move the printhead along the X axis by simply moving its belt - The X stepper can move the printhead along the X axis by simply moving its belt while the Y belt stays stationary
- The Y stepper is totally independent and only has to worry about moving the gantry linearly along the Y axis - The Y stepper only has to worry about moving the gantry linearly along the Y axis (cartesian style)
- BUT when the Y stepper moves the gantry, the length of the X belt on either side of the gantry is affected and the X stepper must also move to compensate - BUT when the Y stepper moves the gantry, the length of the X belt on either side of the gantry is affected and thus the X stepper must also move to compensate
![Kinematic](/assets/images/docs/getting-started/kinematic.png)
{: .max-w-96 }
Luckily this kinematic is supported by both Klipper and the stock Marlin firmware (with a small modification). Luckily this kinematic is supported by both Klipper and the stock Marlin firmware (with a small modification).
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="#### Motion Diagram"
image="/assets/images/docs/getting-started/kinematic.png"
alt="Kinematic"
content=kinematic
%}
## Software ## Software
@@ -39,17 +47,17 @@ kinematics: hybrid_corexy
... ...
``` ```
Now save and restart and you're done. Seriously, you're done. Now save and restart and you're done. Seriously, you're done. You can skip on to the [next page](/docs/stages) now.
### Marlin (Original Firmware) ### Marlin (Original Firmware)
The Marlin firmware is a bit trickier. To change the kinematics here you need to recompile and flash the firmware on your board. The Marlin firmware is a bit trickier. To change the kinematics here you need to recompile and flash the firmware on your board.
Start by following the instructions on the [Marlin site](https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html) until you reach the section on example configurations where you're told to "find the configuration files for your printer." Now you'll need to pick the folder that corresponds to the printer + board version. The surest way to figure which board you have is to open up the case and check. If you have a 4.2.7 or a 4.2.2, it'll be printed right under the Creality logo in the center of the board. If you have a v1 board, there will be no version printed at all. Start by following the instructions on the [Marlin site](https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html) until you reach the section on example configurations where you're told to "find the configuration files for your printer." Assuming you've downloaded the Marlin configurations, you'll now need to pick the folder that corresponds to your printer + board version. The surest way to figure which board you have is to open up the case and check. If you have a 4.2.7 or a 4.2.2, it'll be printed right under the Creality logo in the center of the board. If you have a v1 board, there will be no version printed at all.
![Endorphin stage 1](/assets/images/docs/getting-started/board.png) ![Endorphin stage 1](/assets/images/docs/getting-started/board.png)
So for example if you have an Ender 5 Pro with a 4.2.2 board, you'll find the correct configuration in the folder `config/examples/Creality/Ender-5 Pro/CrealityV422`. So for example if you have an Ender 5 Pro with a 4.2.7 board, you'll find the correct configuration in the folder `config/examples/Creality/Ender-5 Pro/CrealityV427`.
Next we need to configure the firmware to use the Markforged kinematic. This only requires editing a single line in the `Configuration.h` file. If you search the file for "MARKFORGED_XY" you should see this line several hundred lines down: Next we need to configure the firmware to use the Markforged kinematic. This only requires editing a single line in the `Configuration.h` file. If you search the file for "MARKFORGED_XY" you should see this line several hundred lines down:
@@ -63,7 +71,7 @@ You'll want to un-comment this line, like so:
#define MARKFORGED_XY #define MARKFORGED_XY
``` ```
Now you can continue following the Marlin guide exactly as you normally would. Once you've compiled, you can put the new firmware file (usually `firmware.bin`) at the root of your microSD card. Just to be 100% certain the printer will recognize the new firmware, rename the file `firmware-endorphin.bin`. Then with your printer powered off, insert the SD card and power the printer on. Wait a few minutes to ensure the install finishes, then power the printer down and remove the card. Delete `firmware-endorphin.bin` and you're done! Now you can continue following the Marlin guide on compiling the new firmware. Once you've compiled, you can put the new firmware file (usually `firmware.bin`) at the root of your microSD card. Just to be 100% certain the printer will recognize the new firmware, rename the file to `firmware-endorphin.bin`. Then with your printer powered off, insert the SD card and power the printer on. Wait a few minutes to ensure the install finishes, then power the printer down and remove the card. Delete `firmware-endorphin.bin` and you're done!
--- ---

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@@ -6,20 +6,16 @@ parent: Stages
permalink: docs/stages/stage-1 permalink: docs/stages/stage-1
--- ---
![Endorphin stage 1](/assets/images/docs/stages/stage-1/stage-1-render-lg.png) {% capture preface %}
{: .w-1_2 .float-right }
# Stage 1: Hybrid CoreXY
{: .no_toc }
> The goal of this stage is to drop the heaviest single part on the X carriage: **The stepper motor**. This stage alone will remove almost half a pound of moving weight but only takes a few hours to print and assemble. > The goal of this stage is to drop the heaviest single part on the X carriage: **The stepper motor**. This stage alone will remove almost half a pound of moving weight but only takes a few hours to print and assemble.
{: .fs-5 .fw-300 .text-grey-dk-100 .text-justify } {: .fs-5 .fw-300 .text-grey-dk-100 .text-justify }
{% endcapture %}
## Table of contents {% include docs-preface.html
{: .no_toc .text-delta .mt-8 } title="# Stage 1: Hybrid CoreXY"
image="/assets/images/docs/stages/stage-1/stage-1-render-lg.png"
- TOC alt="Endorphin stage 1"
{:toc} content=preface
%}
--- ---
@@ -27,62 +23,110 @@ permalink: docs/stages/stage-1
#### Bolts #### Bolts
| Size | Type | Quantity | | Part | Type | Quantity |
| :---- | :----------------- | :------- | | :---------------- | :---------------- | :------- |
| M3X12 | ISO 4762 / DIN 912 | 4 | | M3X12 socket head | ISO 4762, DIN 912 | 4 |
| M3X25 | ISO 4762 / DIN 912 | 4 | | M3X25 socket head | ISO 4762, DIN 912 | 4 |
| M5X25 hex head | ISO 4017, DIN 933 | 1 |
#### Hex Nuts
| Part | Type | Quantity |
| :------------- | :----------------- | :------- |
| M3-0.5 hex nut | DIN 934 | 3 |
| M5-0.8 hex nut | DIN 985, ISO 10511 | 1 |
#### Belt #### Belt
| Size | Type | Quantity | Link | | Part | Size | Quantity | Link |
| :------- | :------- | :------- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | :------- | :------- | :------- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| GT2 Belt | 6mm wide | 1 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Non-Slip-Version-Printer-Printers/dp/B08R93QQ8Z) | | GT2 belt | 6mm wide | 1 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Non-Slip-Version-Printer-Printers/dp/B08R93QQ8Z) |
#### Pulleys #### Pulleys
| Size | Type | Quantity | Link | | Part | Size | Quantity | Link |
| :------------------ | :------------ | :------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ | | :------------------ | :-------------------------- | :------- | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
| GT2 Toothless Idler | 20-tooth size | 1 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Aluminum-Toothless-Timing-Printer/dp/B01H3F8LUU) | | GT2 toothless idler | 3mm bore, 20-tooth diameter | 5 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Aluminum-Toothless-Timing-Printer/dp/B01H3F8LUU) |
![Endorphin stage 1 plating](/assets/images/docs/stages/stage-1/plating.png) ---
{: .w-3_5 .h-80 .float-right .ml-4 }
## Printing
{% capture printing %}
It should be easy to guess the print orientation for most of these parts. The only difficult one is the oddly-shaped front corner assembly. There's one particularly flat face on the part that has no fillets on the corners; this is the face that was designed to be on the print bed. It should be easy to guess the print orientation for most of these parts. The only difficult one is the oddly-shaped front corner assembly. There's one particularly flat face on the part that has no fillets on the corners; this is the face that was designed to be on the print bed.
{: .text-justify }
You should use **100% infill** for these parts and at least **4 perimeters/walls** (for screw hole durability). Parts printed with 0.2mm layer height look fantastic but 0.24mm is several hours faster. You should use **100% infill** for these parts and at least **4 perimeters/walls** (for screw hole durability). Parts printed with 0.2mm layer height look fantastic but 0.24mm is several hours faster.
{: .text-justify } {: .text-justify }
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="## Printing"
image="/assets/images/docs/stages/stage-1/plating.png"
alt="Endorphin stage 1 plating"
content=printing
%}
## Front Corner Assembly {% capture fca %}
{: .clear-both }
#### Remove Original Y Tensioner Plate And Install New Assembly
{: .mb-4 }
<video muted autoplay controls loop class="w-7_12 float-right">
<source src="/assets/vids/docs/assembly-front-corner.mp4" type="video/mp4">
</video>
1. Remove screws from front-right Y tensioner plate and set them aside for step 3 1. Remove screws from front-right Y tensioner plate and set them aside for step 3
1. Remove the screw from the tensioner keeping the Y belt captured 1. Remove the screw from the tensioner keeping the Y belt captured
1. Attach the new assembly to the frame, reusing the screws from the original plate 1. Attach the front corner piece, reusing the M5 bolt and one of the M3 T-nut screws from the original plate on one side and the other M3 T-nut on the other corner of the aluminum extrusion
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="## Front Corner Assembly"
video="/assets/vids/docs/stage-1/assembly-front-corner.mp4"
content=fca
%}
## Move The X Stepper {% capture idlers %}
{: .clear-both } Next you'll install the right Y belt tensioner and the X belt's front idler. If you bought the 5 pack of smooth idlers linked in the BOM, you can use those both here and as the center idlers.
1. Hook the X belt onto a 20-tooth, 3mm bore idler and slide it into place
1. Insert an M3X25 screw through the top and secure it onto the underside with a hex nut
1. Insert the M5 hex nut into the hexagon slot on the inside of the Y belt tensioner and an M3 hex nut into the slot on the outer right side
1. Hook the Y belt on another 20-tooth idler and slide it into the tensioner housing
1. Place the tensioner housing inside the corner assembly and secure it into place with an M3X25 screw which will pass through housing and idler and thread into the hex nut on the other side. The tensioner housing should now slide forward and back to tension the belt.
1. Push the M5 bolt through the tensioner knob and thread it into the tensioner housing. Twist the knob until the right Y belt is as tight as the left.
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="## Front Idlers"
video="/assets/vids/docs/stage-1/assembly-driven-idlers.mp4"
content=idlers
%}
{% capture x-stepper %}
1. Remove the screws on the back-right Y-axis pulley bracket and set aside
1. Install the new stepper mount by on top of the old bracket, putting the screws back in the same places they were
1. Remove the X stepper from the X gantry by removing the 4 screws on the top
1. Move the stepper to its new mount and secure it with four M3x12 screws
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="## Move The X Stepper"
video="/assets/vids/docs/stage-1/assembly-driving-mount.mp4"
content=x-stepper
%}
### Swap Motors ### Swap Motors
{: .d-inline-block } {: .d-inline-block }
Optional Optional
{: .label .label-blue } {: .label .label-blue .my-0 }
If you're using a direct drive extruder, you can make use of your old extruder stepper to drive the X belt. Because it's a stronger motor than the original X stepper, you'll be able to run the printer at higher speeds without skipping. If you're using a direct drive extruder, you can make use of your old extruder stepper to drive the X belt. Because it's a stronger motor than the original X stepper, you'll be able to run the printer at higher speeds without skipping.
In fact, even if you *are* running the original extruder, you can still swap the extruder and X motors without issue. As long as your hotend is able to keep up with the filament feed rate, your extruder stepper doesn't need an enormous amount of torque. In fact, even if you *are* running the original extruder, you can still swap the extruder and X motors without issue. As long as your hotend is able to keep up with the filament feed rate, the original X stepper should have enough torque to be used as the extruder motor.
## Tune Stepper Current ### Tune Stepper Current
{: .d-inline-block }
Optional
{: .label .label-blue .my-0 }
If you find that your X stepper motor is getting hot during long prints, you can turn your stepper current down a bit. Just follow [this guide](https://all3dp.com/2/vref-calculator-tmc2209-tmc2208-a4988) which should only take a few minutes to complete.
{% capture center-idlers %}
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-step.html
heading="## Center Idlers"
video="/assets/vids/docs/stage-1/assembly-center-idlers.mp4"
content=center-idlers
%}
--- ---

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---
layout: default
title: Stage 2
nav_order: 2
parent: Stages
permalink: docs/stages/stage-2
---
{% capture preface %}
> The goal of this stage is to drop the next heaviest parts on the X carriage: The V-slot wheels and steel mounts. This will yield us another **270g** of moving weight reduction--that's another half pound!
{: .fs-5 .fw-300 .text-grey-dk-100 .text-justify }
{% endcapture %}
{% include docs-preface.html
title="# Stage 2: Linear Y Rails"
image="/assets/images/docs/stages/stage-2/stage-2-render-lg.png"
alt="Endorphin stage 2"
content=preface
%}
---
## Bill Of Materials
#### Linear Rails
| Size | Length | Quantity | Link |
| :----------- | :----- | :------- | :----------------------------------------------------- |
| MGN12H Rails | 300mm | 2 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09QPCTYDM) |
#### Bolts
| Part | Type | Quantity | Link |
| :--------------- | :---------------- | :------- | :----------------------------------------------------- |
| M3X8 socket head | ISO 4762, DIN 912 | 20 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R3GJGWT) |
#### T-Nuts
| Size | Quantity | Link |
| :------------- | :------- | :----------------------------------------------------- |
| M3 2020 T-nuts | 12 | [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NZMD2BJ) |
---
---
[← Back](/docs/stages/stage-1){: .btn .btn-outline .mr-4 .fs-5 } [Next →](/docs/stages/stage-3){: .btn .btn-outline .fs-5 }

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{: .fs-5 .fw-300 } {: .fs-5 .fw-300 }
Endorphin was designed to be progressively upgraded--so you can get started with minimal cost and time, then upgrade at your own pace. Each stage will drop more moving weight, but will also require more materials and printed parts. Endorphin was designed to be progressively upgraded--so you can get started with minimal cost and time, then upgrade at your own pace. Each stage will drop more moving weight, but will also require more materials and printed parts.
> Note: Weight reduction and cost of each stage are listed individually from the stage before it. Grand totals of all the stages are added up in the final row. > Note: Weight reduction and cost of each stage are listed separately--rather than cumulatively--to the stage(s) before it. Grand totals of all the stages are added up in the final row.
{: .fs-4 .fw-300 } {: .fs-4 .fw-300 }
| Stage | Moving Weight Reduction | Cost | Print Time | | Stage | Moving Weight Reduction | Cost | Print Time |